ron-t kayaking blog
07 October 2016 ............ Porth Daffarch to the Stacks
The high pressure that has been sitting over Scandanavia goes on sitting there, and bringing some quite benign weather, although with an east wind, and a great sheet of grey cloud that covers the north sea and much of the UK - so not a lot of sunshine on this day.
And according to the EasyTide website, perfect tides for a trip out to the Stacks - right in the middle of Neaps, a flood tide in the morning, slackwater at lunchtime, and an afternoon ebb tide to bring me back to Porth Daffarch.
The other thing that was noticeable was that the tidal range was unusually small, so there really shouldn`t be much of an issue with tidal currents.
Well all I can say is that I think they got their mathematics wrong - there was far more of a flood tidal current through Penrhyn Mawr than what there should have been with that tidal range, and combined with a bit of a swell coming down from the north east, the outer race of Penrhyn Mawr was very chunky and would have provided some great playtime for those so inclined.
It is a bit of a dichotomy - I don`t like the idea of going out and playing in these kind of races when I am paddling solo, but when you are out there you are effectively solo, you don`t want anybody near you because collisions would be serious, and doing rescues in these sea conditions is impossible anyway.
Even the inner race was quite chunky, I ended up coming through one of the inside races, into the sort of lagoon that forms there at some tide levels.
I went to have a look at the narrow chicken run that runs close to the shore, and the swell coming through it was fairly crashing up and over the high spot, so that was a no-no as well.
Once past Penrhyn Mawr I headed into the bay between the next two headlands - along the back of this bay there is a hidden channel that is quite impressive.
I couldn`t get into the south end of the channel because it was too shallow, so went in the middle entrance. As you head in there you look up at some most amazing rock formations - can you imagine the sort of geological forces that would bend rock like that !
This is looking up the channel towards the north end -
Crossing Abraham`s Bosom in a flood tide isn`t too much of a problem, and soon enough I was along the coast that heads round to South Stack - one of many caves -
Just after that there is another example of the rock bending - a cylinder of rock is all that is left of what must have been the site of some more rock bending.
I had no doubt that I could get through the channels under the bridge, but before doing it, I headed round to have a look at the outside of South Stack - there was a bit of a race, but it was negotiable, so I headed around the outside of South Stack.
As I was coming round the north side of the stack it was very obvious that the tide race that forms out to the north / northwest of South Stack was in cracking form and like Penrhyn Mawr would have provided some challenging playtime.
Once round I went round to see what the channels under the bridge would have been like, and it turned out that they would have been quite exciting, because the quite strong current through the channels was meeting the swell from the north east, and the result was surprisingly lively.
Just round from the channels, and there is a couple of caves - one of them goes right through South Stack.
Round the corner into Gogarth Bay, and a bit of a break in the clouds was letting the sun shine along the Gogarth Cliffs, highlighting their features rather nicely.
Heading across Gogarth Bay, and looking back to South Stack - rather in the shadow, so not looking its best.
Still heading across Gogarth Bay, and another view of the sun lighting up the cliffs, with Parliament House cave in the shade.
Somewhere along the cliffs I appear to have gone into a cave - I don`t remember doing it, and I don`t know which cave it was - but here it is anyway.
Eventually, Parliament House cave - a well known stopping point - except on this occasion it was being rather unfriendly, with the swell producing a significant and somewhat dumping surf, which gave me a bit of problem.
Being somewhat old and stiff, and having a boat that fits me like a too small glove, I can`t just leap in and out of it, so landing and launching into surf does cause me problems, and it was a bit of wetting experience !
Lunch break over, and heading out of the cave, looking away back across Gogarth Bay to South Stack, still rather sulking in the shade.
One of the features of Parliament House cave is a tunnel that leads off from the north side of the cave right through North Stack, and into a cave on the north side of North Stack.
I don`t think you can ever paddle through it, but I have walked through it a couple of times - or perhaps it would be more accurate to say that I have groped my way through it in the darkness - it ends up in the water in the cave at the far end - at least it does at high tide, I can`t remember if I have ever been there at low tide.
This is the outside of the cave on the north side of North Stack -
It is a narrow entrance, but once inside the cave is shaped a bit like a cross - there is some form of gallery off to the left, another one off to the right - I have no idea what shape they are, it is too dark to see.
Straight ahead, and you are looking into the tunnel back through to Parliament House cave.
Whilst I was writing up this blog, I came across a couple of websites that claim that you can use the tunnel as a route out from Parliament House cave - they suggest that you go through the tunnel, and can then scramble up to the fog warning station up on the top of North Stack.
It is an interesting idea - maybe at low tides the cave dries out, but whenever I have seen it it has had water in it.
I have no idea what the future holds, but if I am ever back at North Stack I`ll have to have a look at what the scramble is like.
Once back out of the cave, I headed back around North Stack, and away back into Gogarth Bay - however looking at a previous blog about a trip out to North Stack, it appears that I should have gone a bit further round North Stack, as there is another much bigger cave with two entrances - so it is a pity I missed it.
As you head down the coast away from Parliament House cave there is a series of more caves - the first one is well known for its upstairs window.
Like all the caves along here, it is big inside - looking out, with the window up above.
Next door to the window cave is another very deep cave -
Looking out,
You don`t go far before you get to another cave - or arch - or both, depending on how you want to describe it. I am really a bit too close in, but this is looking in through the arch. I am not sure, but I think that this is maybe called Annies Arch.
The route through the arch is clearly round to the right. If you follow this route through, and then turn round, you are looking into a big cave - I have a recollection that I have been in it before, but I don`t seem to have gone into it on this trip.
Heading further along the coast of Gogarth Bay, and I just happened to look up and noticed this huge boulder sitting on top of a rock tower - I wonder when it will come crashing down.
A bit further along, and some great cliffs - and spot the climbers.
One of them is wearing a blue jacket that is two pixels wide - right in the middle of the picture. The other one is I think - from memory - a few metres higher in a dark recess.
A bit further along, and another cave - it looks as if it is going to be another big one -
Now on the assumption that this is the same cave, it isn`t a big one, but is quite deep - this is from the inside looking out. It is another window cave, but with a somewhat smaller window.
It appears that this is the same cave that I took a picture of on my outward journey, the one I didn`t know anything about.
Another hole through the rocks - I haven`t ever paddled through it, it has been too shallow whenever I have been there, though it might be possible on a Springs high tide. Whether I would want to be paddling around Gogarth Bay on a Springs high tide is another matter.
Almost back to South Stack now, with South Stack still not looking its best in the rather grey lighting conditions.
I headed around the outside of South Stack again to see what kind of a race there was - it was small, so I just continued on.
Now Abraham`s Bosom is the next challenge - because during the ebb tide there is a huge eddy right across Abraham`s Bosom, and it is virtually impossible to paddle against it.
You either have to go right into Abraham`s Bosom and follow the coast right round, or else go away out to catch the ebb current - and you need to go a long way out.
I did it once and ended up so far out from Porth Daffarch I think it took about an hour to get back in.
On this occasion I tried to pick up the ebb current, but it became clear I wasn`t going anywhere, I was still in the eddy, so in the end I gave in and headed right in to the coast, and followed the coast right round Abraham`s Bosom.
Somewhere along the coast, and another hole - it didn`t occur to me at the time, but I wonder what is at the other side of the hole - is there a swallow hole, or a long inlet - I don`t know.
There are a few beaches right at the back of Abraham`s Bosom - the best one is quite a big sandy beach - but it is privately owned, and access is not allowed.
Next door to it there is a stoney beach - and rather bouldery at low tide - it has a wooden staircase at the back, and then a footpath which takes you up to the public road.
Further along, there is another stoney beach with mediocre caves at the back.
Further round, and there is a very deep cave - with a rather threatening huge block of rock just waiting to drop down on a passing boat / seal / fish.
It goes in a long way, if you have the courage to go in under that block of rock.
Out of Abraham`s Bosom now, and a grey view along to Penrhyn Mawr. They were very grey, but I could see the mountains of Snowdonia, but they don`t really show in the photo.
A last look back to South Stack, still sulking in the dull grey lighting.
Round the outside of Penrhyn Mawr and across to Dinas Stack - it is an amazing place, with the most fabulous rock formations. Here is a wider view of it as I paddled across.
A closer view of the outer corner, with the most amazing folded rocks, and a view through the arch on the left.
I went to see if I could paddle through the arch - it is possible at high tide levels - but the swell can be a killer. The entrance to the arch tapers in, so the swell gets amplified as it gets squeezed by the walls leading into the arch.
Then it crashes over a big rock right in the middle of the arch.
I went about halfway in, and was sitting there looking at it, and a big wave came in behind me, and started to push me in - yikes ! - now might be a good time to practice my back paddling.
The wave rose up and crashed down onto the rock. Instant annihilation for anything in there. And I was looking right down into it. Quite a sight !
I retreated, today wasn`t a good day to be going through the arch.
And so back to Porth Daffrach and the end of a most successfull day.
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