ron-t kayaking blog
09 - 11 September 2014 ............ The Swellies
An interesting three days at the Swellies.
There were some very big tidal ranges forecast, but the high pressure that dominated the weather for a big chunk of early September had a fairly major impact on the levels.
On the Tuesday, the sea level was one of the lowest levels I have ever seen - the big patch of seaweed around the Cardinal marker was high and dry on an island -
Just across from it there was another island which isn`t usually there -
At the front corner of the island there was a distinct rapid which isn`t usually there, with quite a drop in level.
Because the water level was so low, the wave just couldn`t form properly, so the surfing wasn`t much good, so I went for a wander to see what else I could find.
The house on the island was away up high as well -
Because of the low water level, halfway across from the house to the Anglesey coastline there was a significant rapid, with a lovely looking green wave at the head of it.
I did a ferryglide out to it several times, but couldn`t ever get to surf it properly - the one time I got a surf, the very strong diagonal current through the wave just whisked me across the wave to the far side in seconds.
So the surfing wasn`t a great success, however I love the process of ferrygliding across a wide fast stretch of water to get to a wave - reminiscent of the ferryglide across the Falls of Lora in a flood tide to get to the wave out in the middle.
Back to the Swellies wave - and loads of playboats had arrived - eventually there were thirteen of them - and the Swellies wave developed into a quite a good playspot, here a few pictures -
Here is a rather good loop in progress - and a bit of good action photography -
A somewhat magnified view of the action -
The Swellies wave usually has a fairly predictable life cycle - it starts of as little more than a ripple, and slowly grows in depth, becoming increasingly lumpy in the process.
After about 45 to 60 minutes it gets sufficiently short and deep that quite quickly, the foam pile starts, and on a good day will extend right down to the trough.
After another hour or so, it starts to lengthen, and loses the foam pile, but can still be quite a deep wave - and the playboats start to drift away.
It was around this point that I headed back onto the wave, and I had the most phenomenal surf I have ever had at the Swellies - it was totally awesome.
It just went on and on on a perfect wave, and I have to say that the Swellies wave has gone away up in my estimation.
A nice sunset to end the day -
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On the Wednesday, the surfing started of okay - maybe not the best I have ever had, but quite acceptable.
Just on cue the playboats started to arrive, there were five of them in all - and I am afraid to say that for one or two of them the most obvious skill on display was wave hogging.
Eventually I gave up and went off to find somewhere else to play.
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On the Thursday quite a few sea kayaks arrived - and the wave behaved very well, it didn`t really ever develop into a playboaters wave, it stayed as a wave more suitable for sea kayaks.
Here are a few pictures -
For this one I was out my boat and standing on the seaweed island around the Cardinal marker, so it is a slightly wider view.
So good surfing, and another nice sunset to end the day.
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